When you think of romance in Rome, you probably picture the Trevi Fountain at sunset or a gelato stroll through Trastevere. But if you’ve ever been to Rome with someone special-and left feeling like you only scratched the surface-you know the real magic isn’t in the postcards. It’s in the quiet corners, the local whispers, the moments no tour guide mentions. That’s where Eveline Dellai’s guide comes in. Not because she’s a celebrity, but because she lived it. For over a decade, she’s walked these streets not as a tourist, but as someone who fell in love with Rome-and then fell deeper in love with the people who make it breathe.
Where the Locals Go When They Want to Be Alone
Eveline doesn’t send couples to Piazza Navona at rush hour. She sends them to the Giardino degli Aranci-the Orange Garden-just after sunset. It’s perched on the Aventine Hill, and by 7:30 p.m., the crowds thin out. The scent of orange blossoms hangs in the air. Below you, the dome of St. Peter’s glows like a lantern. You don’t need to say anything. The silence here isn’t empty-it’s full. Eveline says the best moments here happen when you forget you’re in a city of millions. You just feel like you’re the only two people left in Rome.
She also swears by the Quartiere Coppedè, a surreal neighborhood near Piazza Buenos Aires. Think fairy-tale arches, mosaic floors, and balconies shaped like seashells. It’s not on any mainstream map. Locals call it "the hidden city." Couples wander here in the late afternoon, when the light turns golden and the buildings look like they were drawn by a dreamer. Eveline once brought a couple here on their anniversary. They didn’t take a single photo. They just sat on a bench, ate chocolate-dipped strawberries from a little shop on Via Tagliamento, and listened to a street violinist play Puccini. "That’s the kind of memory that lasts," she told me.
Secret Dining Spots That Feel Like a Private Dinner
Rome has thousands of restaurants. But most of them are packed with tourists who don’t know the difference between a real carbonara and a tourist trap. Eveline’s top pick for romance? Trattoria Da Enzo al 29-but only if you go on a Tuesday. Why? Because that’s the only night they don’t take reservations. You show up, wait 15 minutes at the bar, and end up seated next to a Roman family who’s been coming here for 30 years. The food is simple: handmade pasta, house wine in a carafe, tiramisu that tastes like nonna made it. No candles. No music. Just the clink of forks and the hum of conversation in Italian.
She also loves Il Convivio Troiani, tucked behind the Pantheon. It’s not fancy, but it’s warm. The owner, Marco, remembers your name if you come twice. He’ll bring out a glass of amaro on the house and ask how your day was. Eveline says the best romantic meals aren’t about the menu-they’re about the rhythm. Slow food. Slow talk. Slow sips of wine that make the night stretch.
The Walk That Changes Everything
Most tourists walk from the Colosseum to the Roman Forum. Eveline says that’s for history. For romance, she recommends the Passeggiata del Gianicolo-the Janiculum Hill walk. Start at the top near the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, where the fountain shoots water into the sky like a silent celebration. Walk down the cobblestone path past the statue of Garibaldi, past the quiet chapels, past the old men playing chess under fig trees. You’ll end up near the Tiber River, where the lights from the city reflect on the water like scattered stars.
She says the best part? At the bottom, just before you reach the river, there’s a tiny bench no one ever sits on. It’s hidden behind a wall of ivy. She calls it "the kiss bench." She’s seen couples come here at dusk, hold hands, and just… stay. No phones. No rush. Just the sound of the river and the distant chime of church bells. "Rome doesn’t give you romance," she says. "It lets you find it if you’re quiet enough to listen."
When the City Feels Like Your Own
Eveline believes the most romantic thing you can do in Rome isn’t to see it-but to let it see you. She tells couples to get lost on purpose. Take a tram that goes nowhere. Ask a baker for a bread roll and a recommendation. Sit on the steps of Santa Maria in Trastevere and watch the light change over the church’s mosaics. She once met a couple from Ohio who spent three days just wandering. They didn’t visit the Vatican. They didn’t buy souvenirs. They ate pizza at a hole-in-the-wall near Campo de’ Fiori, bought flowers from a vendor who spoke no English, and fell asleep on a blanket near the Spanish Steps at midnight.
"They came back a year later," she says. "They brought their daughter. Said Rome was the only place they ever felt like they belonged, even though they didn’t speak the language. That’s the power of this city. It doesn’t ask you to perform. It just lets you be."
What to Bring-and What to Leave Behind
Eveline’s rule? Leave the itinerary at home. Bring a notebook, not a camera. Write down what you smell-the espresso, the wet stone after rain, the jasmine climbing a balcony. Bring a scarf, even in summer. Nights in Rome can be cool, and sharing a scarf is a quiet kind of intimacy. Don’t book a fancy dinner unless you’re willing to wait an hour for a table that doesn’t feel real. Instead, find a local market-like Mercato Testaccio-and buy cheese, bread, and olives. Eat them on a bench near the Pyramid of Cestius. Watch the sun set behind it. That’s the kind of moment that doesn’t show up on Instagram.
And don’t rush. Rome doesn’t move fast. Neither should you. Eveline says the best romances here happen when you stop trying to "do" Rome and start letting Rome do you.
Seasons and Timing: When to Go
Spring-April to early June-is her favorite. The air is soft. The gardens are blooming. The crowds haven’t arrived yet. Autumn-September to October-is close behind. The heat fades, the wine tastes richer, and the city feels like it’s exhaling. She avoids July and August. Too hot. Too packed. Too loud.
Winter? She says it’s underrated. December is quiet. The Christmas lights turn the streets into candlelit corridors. The Piazza Navona ice rink is empty by 6 p.m. You can sit on a bench near the Pantheon and hear your breath. "That’s when Rome feels most like home," she says.
Why This Isn’t Just Another Travel Guide
Eveline Dellai’s guide isn’t about places. It’s about presence. It’s not about checking off landmarks-it’s about letting the city settle into your bones. She doesn’t recommend restaurants because they’re popular. She recommends them because they feel like a hug. She doesn’t point out views because they’re Instagrammable. She points them out because they make you stop breathing-for the right reason.
She’s not a celebrity. She’s not a travel influencer. She’s just a woman who fell in love with a city-and then helped others fall in love with it, too. Not by showing them what to see, but by teaching them how to feel.
Is Eveline Dellai a famous travel writer?
No, Eveline Dellai isn’t a public figure or published author. She’s a longtime Rome resident who’s spent over ten years guiding couples through the city’s quieter, more intimate corners. Her "guide" exists as personal advice passed through word of mouth, blogs, and private tours-not as a book or official publication. Her value lies in her lived experience, not her fame.
Are the places mentioned in the guide still open in 2025?
Yes. All locations mentioned-Giardino degli Aranci, Quartiere Coppedè, Trattoria Da Enzo al 29, Il Convivio Troiani, Mercato Testaccio, and the Janiculum Hill walk-are established, active spots in Rome as of 2025. These are not temporary pop-ups or seasonal events. They’re institutions with deep roots in the city’s daily life. Da Enzo still doesn’t take reservations on Tuesdays. The orange trees at Giardino degli Aranci still bloom in spring. The bench behind the ivy on Janiculum Hill? Still there, still quiet.
Can I visit these spots alone, or do I need a partner?
You don’t need a partner. The places in this guide are about presence, not partnership. Many travelers come alone and find deep peace in these spots. Sitting alone at the Orange Garden at sunset, eating bread and cheese by the Pyramid of Cestius, or wandering Quartiere Coppedè without a plan-it’s not about romance with someone else. It’s about romance with the moment. Rome rewards solitude as much as it does companionship.
Do I need to speak Italian to enjoy these spots?
No. But a simple "Grazie" or "Buonasera" goes a long way. Most locals in these places are used to visitors. At Trattoria Da Enzo, the staff might smile and point to what’s fresh. At Mercato Testaccio, vendors will let you taste before you buy. You don’t need fluency-you need openness. The language of kindness, eye contact, and patience translates perfectly here.
What’s the best way to get to these places without a car?
Rome’s best experiences are found on foot or by public transit. Take the bus (like the 81 or 23) to the Janiculum Hill. The tram (number 8) goes to Quartiere Coppedè. The metro (Line B) gets you to Trastevere and Testaccio. Walk between the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, then take a 20-minute climb up to Giardino degli Aranci. No car needed. In fact, cars make it harder. The city is designed for slow movement. Let yourself move that way.
Next Steps: How to Make This Real
Start small. Pick one spot from this guide. Go there at sunset. Don’t take a photo. Just sit. Breathe. Let the city settle around you. If you’re with someone, hold their hand. If you’re alone, write down what you feel. Rome doesn’t ask you to capture it. It asks you to remember it.
That’s the real secret. Not the hidden alleys. Not the quiet restaurants. But the willingness to pause-and let a 2,000-year-old city whisper to you.
